Saturday
11 something am
Thursday-
In the morning the toilet flushed and I was excited by that. There are things that I know that I take for granted in America. They are
-consistent, working plumbing (including hot water because the red vs. blue dial on the sink means nothing. Although to be fair, I wouldn’t and don’t want to use hot water here for a shower. The cold shower feels fabulous).
-paved and lit roads, which I think I’ve already mentioned. We took a flashlight last night on the walk, but I’m better. Perhaps my eyes have adjusted to the lack of light.
Paved roads are, even with potholes, a much different experience than the roads here. The rain causes large dips, holes, pools, and paths. The car yesterday through ‘the bush’ was an experience. More like a rollercoaster with the twists and turns and changes in speed than a car ride. I’m glad, though, for cars. Even if they are near falling apart in general.
I feel like there are other things. Oh, yes,
-sleeping without a net around me. Although, I had expected swarms of mosquitoes around me and really there haven’t been any more than I would expect to see outside at home at night. I see far more flies. I guess I don’t know that the flies carry something-but they don’t bite. The bug cream I have from America is a thick, greasy cram. I feel like it lays on top of my skin without really sinking in. but it’s on, I slapped one mosquito in action the other day resulting in some shed blood. But ive only seen on red bit mark.
-and fans. It’s so hot I have a lot of trouble sleeping. I’m just soaked in sweat and uncomfortable. It’s extremely difficult to sleep.
Back to Thursday:
Drumming in the morning; we went to the bamboo place in the car which was also getting fixed from the brakes not responding. A good thing to have fixed. I started on djembe, doing better than before. I’m good with the break, first accompaniment, and moving in and out of the break. It’s the second accompaniment that is hard for me to play if Libon changes what he plays. I got the first down; I can sing that one easily in my mind now. But the second one is harder to hear in my head. A lot harder. So maybe I’ll get a few repetitions in before his pattern pulls my brain with it.
I spent more time with the sangbong and dun dun. The sangbong (sp?) requires the use of my left hand playing bell and my right hand playing the drum with a stick . I got the rhythm pattern down which I was glad about. But with the stick I have to play the first hit open and the second and third dampened. The dampening is hard for me. The stick wants to bounce. I got the loud to soft volume change but the dampening is not there yet. That is a hard instrument pattern for me. But I am glad I conquered the rhythm as that was tripping me up the previous day.
The dun dun, Libon said, was going to be easy. I laughed at this remark, but it turns out to be true. Again, this requires my left hand to play bell and my right to play the drum.
I couldn’t get the pattern singing at first, I couldn’t hear where it turned around to repeat. Then suddenly it clicked and playing it was not a problem.
I suppose I should have covered Wednesday evening, as it makes Thursday (the rest of it) make more sense. So I’m going to jump back.
On Wednesday, Libon and I (after me writing that last entry) walked to the market to exchange the traveler’s cheques. The black market man we’d seen earlier didn’t want to deal with traveler’s cheques so we had to go to the bank. The bank was a taxi cab ride over to an area I hadn’t been and the bank was nice and cool with air conditioning. After calling American express to verify, I was able to exchange the 360 pounds for dalais. On our walk towards home, around the corner from the bank, was a man selling DVD movies that have 8 or more movies on one. I didn’t quite understand how but I think they’re recorded from TV or somehow else bootlegged into smaller files to fit. Anyway, for 75 dalasi which is between 3 and 4 dollars, you can buy one of these. They seem to kind of have themes. One of the ones that Libon got had a bunch of films with one actor. The guy from the Blade movies, who’s name escapes mea the moment. And he got one of rap music videos. Then we walked back stopping at Isha and Seny’s.
Going home for dinner, before dinner, Libon put in the rap videos—recorded, some of them, off BET. We were watching that and then left it on and moved to the table to eat. Amy cam in and switched the dvd to something she wanted to watch. When Libon’s brother was done eating, he got up and switched the dvd back. This started a fight back and forth. Amy shouting after awhile. While I couldn’t tell what she was shouting about I knew she was mad. And I felt very awkward sitting in the living room so I went to bed. There wasn’t much else to do.
Back to Thursday:
Came back form drumming at the bamboo place and for lunch I was a part of the circle of men and Mbalia. Amy, I could tell was still mad. She didn’t eat, stormed by, and promptly took the car and left.
Sitting and reading, Libon came and sat with me. Told me more that Amy was mad, didn’t give a reason, and asked for a letter for a divorce.
This led to a discussion about family. And being present when kids are young. And how he know his kids know him but he wants to wait maybe 2 more years and then go work in Europe. I spoke about the families- broken and reconstructed at CAPCS. And about the students I teach and how we as teachers spend more waking hors with them. They occasional “mom” calls and how I am, with all we take on, like their mother.
We then went to Isha and Seny’s. sitting there, Isha was braiding her sister’s hair and said that’s what she wanted to do to mine. I don’t know that it’ll stay like there’s does with nothing at the end. She said it would only take an hour, which I responded with an “I don’t believe that.” But then I realized that the braids she was putting in were bigger than what I had seen the woman doing for Mbalia and Amy. (They were my reference for the comment and theirs had taken all day.) So if bigger braids, maybe an hour. Julia, her sister’s daughter didn’t cry at the sight of me, but still was frightened of me.
While there, Libon took a few phone calls- which isn’t unordinary- but then gave it to me. That seemed odd and even more that it was the airport telling me they had my bag. I had them tell me the color and asked them at least 3 times if they were sure that it had my name on it.
So we drove to the airport. Not Libon, because he doesn’t have a license, but with a boy driving the car. And they did have my bag.
I didn’t expect that at all.
Driving back, we were stopped by the police. They were checking papers and licenses I guess. But it seemed if you slip the man some money, all is good, and you’re on your way.
Libon bought some roasted corn on the way home. This is corn on the cob put directly on the fire (no husk as we would do in America). The result is that it tastes in between corn on the cob and popcorn. It’s drier but still chewy and you pick the pieces off to eat. It was tasty.
When done, Libon threw his out the car window and took the one from my hand and did the same. He then made a comment about how if I’m done with something I put it in my pocket. A true observation. And then stated he knew it wasn’t the way of Europe or America but the Gambian way is to throw it on the ground. Whatever it is. So I’ve seen with plastic wrappers and anything else. So I must revise my earlier green statement. With water and paper and electricity (if only for the fact they don’t have it to use), they are greener than we are. But if considering trash and litter, then they are assuredly not green. I felt okay about the corn as it is natural and can compost. But the wrappers and such: not so much. There does seem to be a dump of sorts –we pass it on the way to and from the bamboo place.
My stuff was all there and aside from my exploding shampoo all over the pocket and electronic chargers, fine.
Taking a shower and putting on my own clean clothes and having shaved and deodorant-ed arm pits was a glorious feeling.
No Amy for dinner, but Libon made fried egg and it was good. Made into like a sandwich, it’s tasty. They eat a lot of ketchup and while I didn’t with eggs, in general that makes me smile. No generator turned on for the evening.
Oh, but before dinner, after my shower we went to see Mohammed. Earlier in the day at Isha’s when Libon was talking about Amy and the kids, I had asked about him since I hadn’t seen Mohammed. The response was that “he had…” with an arm motion. In very few words, I understood he had been circumcised and was healing (although not “in the bush.”) He was being cradled by a man holding a sheet over him at Amy’s family’s place. Amy and Mbalia were there. And I had been instructed not to say anything earlier in the day, which was not hard to do as I felt extremely out of place. Mohammed just looked in great pain. He was certainly not like the smiley boy I first met. And clearly, the reason is clear. Libon spoke to him. And I sat awkwardly, unsure of where to look. They stood him pu to move into the house and I felt such a contradiction within me. I wanted to know more about what he’s going through and the ritual but having grown up in a culture such as I have I didn’t feel right being there able to see this rite. So I’m glad I know where he is and why and that I was allowed to come, but also I feel way more like an outsider than I have previously here. Mbalia cried for her father as we were leaving, so she came home with us. And fell asleep in my arms.
Then dinner. Then Libon left for “5-10 minutes” which was really much longer. Not that it matters but with no electricity (no TV, may be a more accurate statement), there was not much to do. I considered being like Abraham Lincoln and writing by candle light but instead I just laid by Mbalia. Libon returned and said Isha sent her greetings. And soon after I went to bed.
FRIDAY- wow, I’ve written a lot and just reached yesterday. And yesterday was filled with a lot. A trip – a journey is a better description for the day.
I think though I’ll come back to that after I read for awhile. To jump to the present I slept in and then started this. Libon is not here (not any problem) but Amy has come with Mbalia. And now she is cooking, which is confusing and intriguing.
ak
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