Sunday, August 24, 2008

06 august 2008 - 3:11 pm

06 august 2008
3:11 pm





Today’s drum lesson was somewhere else. We went where there were a lot of bamboo trees –referred to simply by the bamboo. The land belongs to Atical who’s Christian name is Moses but he explained that he goes by artist (Atical). He gave me the choice from 2 African names—Benti and Musuba (spelling questionable). These apparently mean something along the lines of “nice lady.” Although the second may also have some reference to “strong.”






Last night the rain was strong. Incredibly strong, but I wonder if part of the sound difference also comes from the 1 story tin roof to the compound house. I had read in the guidebook about the lightning being like fireworks and it was lighting up the sky. The lightning in the distance is beautiful. It made it difficult to sleep. So today I feel even more tired. I had strange dreams as well but that’s not new.







We went to the internet café. I need to pay for the balafon lessons. They were not in the arrangement paid for which would have been nice to know. My bag, I also found out, never left DC. That is not helpful. It better be there when I return. I decided it was better not to try to go to the airport and request it to be sent here. One, because there isn’t a Delta counter to talk to a specific person I don’t think. Two, who knows if that process would work and how long it would take. And three, I think driving back and forth to the airport would cost more time and money. The bag is not in oblivion, which was my larger fear.

I’m not happy that I’ve spent money on the clothes and things and have to with regard to the balafon lessons because I really don’t know how to gauge what I have to spend on transportation, activities, and gifts.
I’d like to ask Libon if I can pay him in pounds for a drum and the lessons at the same time because I think I could give him the 400 pounds I have and be settled with that and then not have to change any other money into delasis. I just feel awkward about money but I can’t avoid it.

Two nights ago after buying some flip flops (called slippers here) and walking to the internet cafe, Libon and I visited his friends’ compound. The couple, Isha and Seny, are very nice. I like them a lot. Isha is very kind about them speaking their language Susu (pronounced like the Sioux Indian name), and also they talk in English to me to carry on conversations.
We went there yesterday afternoon as well. And last night. Their compound is one room of a building that has maybe 4 or 5 doors. Their neighbors seemed at a glance that they might have a bigger space, but I’m not sure. Their room is maybe the size of my small bedroom at home—maybe just slightly bigger. But welcoming me in, I was offered a chair as well as libon and they sat o their mattress on the floor. I don’t think most people have bed frames.

They, or Isha, explained they are from Guinea, like Libon and the other 2 musicians (Suryell and Ebro) working with me. The men are best friends. They spend a lot of time sitting, talking, smoking, and laughing together as Libon explains is the Gambian way of life.
The Susu language is from Guinea. I was taught some phrases and will need Libon to repeat them so I can write them down. Phonetically of course. Libon can’t write or read English so I suppose it would be good for both of us.
Conversation of 2 nights ago revealed their, and Africa’s, dislike of the Bush family. Spoke of Obama’s chances at winning the election and some about me from America and being a teacher. And Isha laughing at me walking in the dark.
Yesterday afternoon, after the drum lesson, we went over and she was cooking lunch on their step outside. Their step I like because it says “love” in shells with a heart.






I noticed that yesterday and it’s simple, but is drawing as a feature. Her neice, a little baby, started crying at my sight. She hadn’t seen a toubab—or at the very least had never recognized the light skin. I felt bad that she was crying just at the sight of me. When her mom came around she obviously felt safer and then smiled at me.





Ebro, Libon, and I sat in the yard and they talked. Libon every once in awhile explaining and including English for me. Seny appeared and they continued sitting, talking, smoking…picking up people. Had some lunch—me included in the communal aspect. Libon explaining that by eating together one thinks and is surrounded by family. That eating alone is unhappy as you think of your family and not being with them.
It all makes perfect sense. I enjoy eating with others much more than by myself. The community aspect to African life is lacking in America’s individualistic society.




Sitting, talking, relaxing—it’s a nice way to spend the afternoon. They had explained the night before about the tea. I had seen a woman in the compound preparing it, but their explanation made it much more clear.





It’s a Chinese tea. They boil/heat two small cups worth of water—like almost shot glass size, but a little bigger—in a china tea kettle with a small box of this tea. Once it’s boiling a process begins of mixing in sugar. They don’t just stir this in. A cup’s worth of the tea is poured repeatedly back and forth from one little cup to the other. Again and again to mix in the sugar. It’s a long but defined process.






The result is a sweet green tea. Served in the little cups to the people one is with. Repeating the process to get more servings. It was good. I like the taste of sweetness from the sugar.










The threatening rain-which ended up not coming until very early this morning—had us return from this afternoon of relaxing.
I read and took a shower. After which I was going to write but Libon asked me if I wanted to go for a walk. We walked a different way out of the compound and eventually after crossing some soccer fields of kids, a golf course, and some nice looking compounds, we arrived at the ocean/beach.





There is some blacker sand mixed in and the water therefore is a different color. We walked up the beach and sat on a rock. Looked like a volcanic sort of rock- I don’t have the geology skills to name it. Watched the sun set over the water.
Different than seeing it rise in Florida. We walked back—it getting darker as we went. I think I did better with it than the night before (walking without light).
Some things—like sidewalks or at least flat roads and street lights you don’t really think about until they are completely absent from your reality. He know the way in the complete darkness which I guess I could do with the familiarity at home…maybe. But it’s not like they were on any sort of grid. And we weren’t taking a straight path.
I like getting that experience of African life –he had commented on it before in the day. And it comes up again as being different from Europe and America.
It certainly is. But then at the root, it’s not. I like passing my time with friends and that’s what we were doing as we ended ip back at Isha’s compound. I think that it’s just more at the forefront of their lives.
They, as Isha said, tend to focus only on the positive, never negative. And I think we don’t have that perspective. Or at least I can’t claim that to be true in my life. It’s hard to only stick with the positive.
Last night’s conversations were more of a history lesson. Guinea’s independence, second after Ghana, and a struggle for full not half as was being offered.
Slavery. Who was selling who and who still is.
The dislike of Arabs. But the liking of America. Of Britain not helping their ex-colony but of America lending help.

All while sometimes hard to follow in their English version was extremely interesting.

Isha—back on the subject of my mom working about me—insists on her taking care of me. Which she and her husband (in addition to Libon) have. She rubbed me with insect repellent while Seny in the afternoon selected where we would sit based on the possibility of biting bugs and kills mosquitoes in their compound so nothing would bite me.
Their hospitality is amazing. And I like the conversation.
They include me. It’s nice. I understand though if Amy, Libon’s wife, has been slightly jealous of us not being at home. Isha alluded to something like that.

The place of a wife and of not making informed decisions came up as well during conversation. I’m less inclined to accept that view straight as she expressed it, but there were interesting stories to go with it.
A man who’s strength was high and envied had a wife, Lila (or Delia, I’m not sure). The others wanted the secret of his strength and went to the wife to get it. She requested money and was presented with money and jewels to reveal that her husband’s strength lay in his rastas (dreads). The woman, in exchange for the money, allowed the met to cut his rastas then to take his strength. So the story explains how a man can never fully trust a woman, even his wife.

Interesting.

And some other stories of the magic of these other drummers who drum all night at ceremonies. And how no one beats them or wants to compete against them in competition. And how they can plant rice and in the same day it will grow to be cut and eaten. And how someone’s throat was cut pouring blood but the man started dancing back to life and didn’t know he had even been cut.

And something about a large snake and a lion.

==

Excellent, libon agreed to the pounds. That make me feel better and not as though I’m not paying him for the lessons.
And I won’t need to change more money I don’t think. Hopefully.

They have a way of positive thinking and saying “no problem” which I like. It’s like “pura vida” in Costa Rica, the “no problem” phrase.
Not quite the same, but used on similar principle.

I haven’t seen Mohammed in days and I don’t know where Mbalia is. She’s warmed up to me. I still feel awkward with her, but she will come up to me and had me carry her yesterday and we played with her tricycle this morning.




Something about someone being sick was why we left this morning. Not clear on that but I liked seeing the bamboo place. The owner wanted me to buy a cane with a snake head on top and I don’t want to. Helping his family is the reason given for it being offered as opposed to just selling them. But a., I don’t want it and b., I think I can cover that reason with that it won’t be liked by airport security.
(NOTE: the snake head on the cane reflects his ability to use some magic to control a snake that apparently watches over the bamboo place. The snake will make appearances while people drum as well. POSTNOTE: one day there was a man sitting listening to us drum who suddenly left because he thought he saw the snake. Then libon and ebro and suryell started saying that they could smell the arrival of the snake predicting that it would show itself. Pretty sure they were just joking around. I never saw the snake.)

Libon got up and went into the garage and closed the doors. I’m not sure what that is. I hope by me saying I wanted to buy a drum that it doesn’t mean he needs to go and create one.
Although from our walking conversation last night, it only takes a week to do. That’s quite fast. He explained about getting a good drum—that you can’t in Europe. And I agreed –I wouldn’t know. But I know I’ll get a good one from him.

04 august 2008 - 6:37 pm

04 august 08
6:37 pm

no answer on the baggage. Best case—that it’s on its way; worse—it’s not there.



Just finished my 2nd balafon lesson. Not sure if I’ve paid for those or will be? Libon wasn’t clear—or rather it wasn’t clear to him. I paid Mike the total he told me but I don’t know what that was for. So I don’t know how that will go. Unfortunately.

Thie third balafon part was very tricky for me. He broke it down by hands but I feel like it as that 2 hands piano issue.

I tried asking him for half but to him that meant one hand, not ½ of the complete pattern. Eventually I got him to play it very slowly and then I was able to piece it together. I’m glad I conquered that.

I like those lessons but I want to make sure the payment is straight. I kind of feel like it’s not.

It’s rained off and on today. Was pouring at one point during the drum lesson.


I walked into the bathroom and ant are crawling all over so there’s a few lingering on my feet. That still doesn’t seem to work for me so for now I’m going to attempt to avoid it. The Gambians don’t use the toilet as we do and the right hand vs. left hand system results. They much more green without working at it in their daily lives.

The little girl, Mbalia, has been getting her hair braided with extensions all day and they’re still working on it. She whines and cries every once in awhile. I’m sure it hurts. They’ve offered to do mine…

Last night the women were all crowded together half dressed and putting makeup on. They, I was later told, were going to a party/picnic (I heard it described with both words). So I watched tv out the door of the neighbor’s and when Libon returned (I came out of the shower and the house was empty), I had dinner and watched tv with him.

We talked about Obama and the upcoming presidential election in America. And he explained things related to the tv and my questions. Such as the president, and commercials, and mobile phone contests. Progress with me and my talking. It was nice.



While watching tv, Libon went and got a mango to eat. He peeled it and then was just using a knife to cut off pieces to eat. He asked me if i wanted some and i said no first, but that was then just fuel for him to force me to eat. I figured it was peeled and coming from him, so i had some. It was good.



Living with him, I’ve found he is a Rastafarian. Liz had mentioned that, but it’s been confirmed. He and Suryell have asked if I smoke, to which I answered no and that it didn’t bother me. His response was “I’m sorry” but I’m not sure if he was sorry that he was smoking in my presence or that I wasn’t partaking.

Last night on the news they spoke of a new medical center coming to a town he said where they grow ganja. And that nobody really bothers with the town. I wasn’t sure if he meant they just turn their head at the production?
Also after news about a new bank, the conversation surrounded the bank coming from Nigeria. And the mafia. And how rich the bank people become. And you have to have a “strong job” or own a company really to use the bank. I thought that this was all very interesting.

It’s getting darker. I came to the room really to put more bug spray on. With the rainy and wetness, I think that’s a good and necessary plan.
ak

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

04 August 2008 - 4:?? pm

4 August 08
4 something pm

My hands hurt. The left one more, much more, than the right. Libon said that’s because ti’s my stronger hand, but with that I would have thought that my right would hurt more. It’s like puffy. I can’t close it all the way.

I’d also like to curse being a girl right now in the Gambia. I spoke to someone on the phone at Air Senegal who said he was looking for my bag. I really hope he found it. I don’t know where Libon is as I’d like to call again and find out.

I did better with the lesson this morning. Did better with playing my part against his switching. Faster too.

He says “thank you” when I’m right although not always which makes me think either I’m not right or that I’ve fallen trap to needing praise more as a westerner. No stickers given for the completion of exercises. I say we give too many prizes to our students and I think I lack being fine with no praise.

03 August 2008 - 11:32 pm

3 August 08
11:32 pm

Day one of drumming. My left hand is red and sore. Was part way through the lesson.

Was difficult. Different syllables—but they help. Couldn’t quite be consistent with the call and accompaniment.

It’s coming slowly they say.

I wonder how slow.

It’s hot in this room. man, what a difference from the larger living room space.

I also had a balafon lesson. I got that easier I think. Need to play the pattern faster and continue even if he plays something else. But I’m glad I got both. I knew I requested that—but I didn’t know hours wies what would happen.

I was served a plate of lunch separately which is fine. And what sucks is that I had someone on the phone at Air Senegal but lost them so I didn’t get any information. Don’t really understand why I losst them.

Libon took me to the market so I have two other things to wear. It was an adventure. I’m glad I was with him and am not sure if I’d have had the same luck with out him.

A shower also. Yay. Cold but running water…although the toilet doesn’t seem to want to flush for me. I don’t get that and feel dumb about it.

I’m going to sleep and hopefully it will go better than last night.
ak

02 August 2008 - 11:32 pm

2 August 08
11:32 pm

It looks like I have 3 bites from something on my foot.

Lunch today was communal—felt better than eating by myself. But I don’t know how much to say.
It’s hotter in my room. I’ve just come into the room and I cant tell that.

After lunch, and something about the sun moving, libon took me to the internet café. I found vitamins, sunscreen, hand sanitizer, and baby wipes and pads.
There was no insect repellent though. I’d like to find that. I got some change from my hundred delasi too. Definitely gave the men yesterday a lot. Though I still feel fine about that for their help.

I also got to call my mom. I felt better about that as well.

Coming back I wanted to get water which Libon did for me and I wish he would have showed me instead. He wouldn’t take my money to repay him at the internet café and I feel like the water will be the same.

I got the phone numbers to Delta and Air Senegal. I want to call tomorrow. Libon and I discussed a phone option—something about a line—but as of yet I don’t know about that.
I will ask him again tomorrow.

Yup, I definitely sweat more in this room. tomorrow I start drumming and also I will shower. The girls left me a string so I can create a clothes line. Being a little McGiver just now I found I think it will hold from the nail of the window tapestry to around the hinge of the door. On can hope and I hop to try tomorrow.

Libon left somewhere after lunch so I sat and read the guidebook—much better than the one I had read at home from mom. Nothing against that one but this is specifically about only the Gambia and I think I’ve found some things I want to do/see.

I wish I had my stuff.

Took a nap—felt sweaty and wanted to lay down post reading and awoke to sounds out in the courtyard.
A tv had been pulled to the other house’s door and crowded around it were some men and children watching some sort of beauty contest.
I was offered a seat and joined. The women had little videos and were promoting their thoughts about being green or education or children to gain votes. Each had a phone number.

After that came some news which although reported in English was hard to understand. The president was pointed out to me. And then a birthday, death anniversary, and obituary came on. Text and picture—similar to an ad one would place in the newspaper.
The little baby—younger than Libon’s daughter, so less than 2—sang along with the American Happy Birthday played in the background of the birthday announcement.

Earlier I experienced my first “toubab” greetings/exclamations. On our walk to the Internet Café. Toubab means white person and is said/shouted by the children upon my sighting. They are friendly and as advised by the guidebook and Liz, I smile and wave and say hello. I suppose I will hear it a lot and it is friendly so it really doesn’t bother me.

Called from the tv for dinner, tonight it was French fries and fried egg. With some bread, the fried egg with onions was good.

I am using my left hand which they have not commented on but I do so with my fork and do try to make sure that I take the food only with my right. And use my right fingers to eat as well. Really not suited for a lefty.

Tom and Jerry pulled the kids from the table as the generator was turned on and my candle lit dinner turned to a light bulb. Libon joined me and spoke only really to tell me to eat more.

He and Amy tell me toeat. I did have more although then really did feel full.

I did better at conversation on our walk to and from the internet trip. I think I will do better tomorrow and then hopefully continue.

It’s isolating. I need a wingman.
ak

02 August 2008 - afternoon

2 August 08
afternoon

Today is Saturday so there is no drum teaching.
I had breakfast—sat by myself—and then felt so tired. I don’t know why as I slept yesterday and last night—although traveling and worrying must have taken a lot out of me. So I slept and awoke under my net wondering what to do.
At Libon’s suggestion I am now sitting outside to relax.
The boys have been playing soccer with a tennis ball although they stopped to hack up some mangoes. Now it looks like they’re going to the street. Amy is cooking. Libon left earlier on a bike.

So today has been relaxed. I feel as though I’m not social but I don’t know what to do.

I guess I’ll continue writing about yesterday. Good that I stopped as Libon soon after turned off the generator. There is no power during the day, but they run a generator at night.

Upon arriving at the compound yesterday, I met Liz. Liz was here for drumming and sadly was preparing to leave as I came.
She, though, is a life saver. For being a stranger to me, she gave me some things –sunscreen, a little bug spray, shampoo, and her guidebook to use.

Some knowledge too. Apparently this was her 4th trip to Africa. She recalled how overwhelming it is. She then hugged me upon finding out that this was my first trip.
I really want my bag. I would feel so much better. She was great. I wish that our stays had overlapped. Her kindness is humbling and so appreciated.

I slept until dinner and then watched some episodes of Tom and Jerry with the family.
Tom and jerry on DVD had been a gift of departing Lid and Abi. I haven’t seen Tom and Jerry in so long. I forgot that they really have no dialogue or very little and are pretty funny.

French fries and hat seemed like a version of French toast was dinner. Both fine by me. Libon encouraging me to eat more.

It’s nice sitting out in the breeze. It’s very hot although it seems cooler than yesterday but that could just be my perception.

It looks as though I may have 4 bites on my foot. I haven’t seen mosquitos but flies. I bat them away but noticed yesterday the men didn’t bother. Cultural difference I suppose.

I feel stupid about my luggage. I want that. I want my mom to know I’m fine.

When libon returns, I’ll ask him about the internet. A monarch butterfly just flew past.
ak

01 August - Gambia - 11:50 pm

01 August 2008
Libon’s house, the Gambia
11:50 pm

Wow. Today was intense. I don’t know where to start really.
Once it was ten this morning I still didn’t see Banjul listed on any of the screens in the Senegal airport. And I was getting really nervous about that. So I got up and got in line and she asked me if I had luggage. I explained I did but not with me due to the tag. Then I stood waiting still completely unsure of everything.
A worker called out “Banjul” to which I answered and I was moved. The next worker again asked about the bag but it seemed the tag made sense. Or maybe that was just my misconception since there was no further conversation about it.
He told me A2 and I was off around the corner. I accidentally walked past the line but then went back to go through the line. Double checking “A2” as I went.
Then there was a gate. And a lot of the people I had been watching go through the line all morning. I guess they knew something I didn’t. the screen still said Paris and not Banjul.

Then I saw a phone. I had opted not to go back to that restaurant plaza because I didn’t want to be hassled and I didn’t feel safe and didn’t want to miss the never appearing screen. That phone was a glorious site but it didn’t work. No dial tone. I waited. I tried dialing and then waited. No luck.
So I sat down and saw that the woman next to me had a ticket that said “ Banjul.” This I thought was lucky as I could follow her.
They called the flight—I guess—I didn’t understand and didn’t hear Banjul. But again checked and was taken to a bus. That bus moved across the tarmac to our plane. Bigger than I had expected but still small with propellers on the wings.

I must have slept some as I woke to find I missed the beverage service. That was okay; I was feeling so overwhelmed and concerned to drink anyway.

Arrived in Banjul and bused to the terminal. I felt good that I was able to fill out my paperwork—seemed easier than the Spanish trips or maybe just that now I have more experience with them?

Then came luggage, and I got scared. I didn’t see it. And waited and didn’t see it. It wasn’t there. I wanted to cry but didn’t. I was so angry and just felt enraged. So I made a claim and faced the Honduras problem of not having a phone number. Great. And all my stuff and medicine. God, I felt as though I was dealing with enough to have that added on. Traveling by myself. To Africa. Alone. 1st time. No clue. And now no luggage.

So I went through and by this time everyone else had and so I was basically alone. I mean I already was the lone American single white girl.

And then I saw no sign. Where was the Drumculture sign? This couldn’t be happening. I wanted to scream. And to cry. And to go home.

A man approached me to ask if I needed a ride. I told him I was waiting.

Moses—he helped me and I’m sure I gave him way more money than I should but I wouldn’t be here without him. I only had Mike’s number and his Gambian one didn’t work. The men took an active approach to all trying and discussing the school. He helped me change money—I think that the commission was large but I didn’t care. Moses kept telling me it was alright and that “this is Gambia, a nice place.” He took some money to get phone credits and so I could make international calls. Luckily I reached Mike in the UK. At that point, I was in a cab and had him turn around to go back to the airport. Mike was going to call Libon.

I was so…I don’t even know the right word. Scared, mad, confused. they all are part of it but don’t encapsulate the feelings I had.

My mind kept turning to the people telling me it would be fine and great and not to worry. I wanted to yell at those people. I wanted to yell at myself. And I wanted to talk to someone to fix it.

I was worried about my mom. She, I was sure, was having a terrible time as I looked at my watch. I called and the privacy setting required me to identify myself. I said “Amanda” 2x which it couldn’t recognize and “Krause” 1x and then it told me to hang up. I got Heimy’s voicemail and in a trembling voice left her a message to call my mom. I then left the Shea’s a message also. It was a phone number I knew and I had really hoped someone would answer. I just hope someone reached my mom.

Then I waited. Moses too until he went to evening prayer. He came back and I was still there. Still just defeated.
Meanwhile another man interested in helping me and coming to America was talking to me. I didn’t want to talk. I wanted to feel okay.

Libon appeared and apologized for the time mixup. He was there. The men talked and I couldn’t understand. I got them to go back so I could give the baggage ladies the phone number. They were shocked I hadn’t left. Yeah, me too.

They didn’t really say what they would do. I don’t know ho that works here. I want my stuff. I need that stuff.

So Libon and brother (or someone)drove us and the baggage lady—who needed a ride—back.

I think I’ll continue in the morning. I don’t know how I’ll sleep. I want the internet tomorrow. I feel bad having the light on still and know I need to adjust to this schedule. But there’s so much more.

I wish I wasn’t alone.
ak

1 August 2008 - Dakar, Senegal - 2:32/6:32 am

1 August 2008
2:32 → 6:32 am
Dakar, Senegal

When I think airport, my mind conceives an American airport, or even I guess those that I’ve experience in Central America. This is different.
I’m not exactly sure how or where I’ll be boarding a plane. When landing, we walked down to the tarmac and then my name was crossed off a list and I boarded a bus to the building. Having not gotten any paperwork or instructions, I was very confused. Thanks to the kind help of an employee, I passed through the line. He assured me that my baggage will meet me in Banjul—that’s what the claim ticket expresses. But of course, I worry about that. He then took me to another building where I’ll check in for my flight, but this is a long wait.
After sitting for awhile, a policeman, Michael, has approached me and says his English is bad, but it’s not. He wants to come to America—and stay with me. Shortly after, another man approached me wondering why I’m waiting so long instead of taking the bus. It’s apparently air conditioned and only takes 4 hours.
He thought I needed to eat something and shoed me to the restaurant. While I declined that, I did see where there is a phone place. It is not open and I’m sure this is causing much strife to my mother, but hopefully I can tackle that after 8 o’clock here.
A man with money, a calculator, and the desire to put his arm around me bothered me in French. That is not comforting. Now would be a great time to know French—or maybe remember something from 6th grade.
Was fine on the flight, but now I’m very nervous.
ak

31 July 2008 - New York - 2:57 pm

31 July 2008
New York
2:57 pm

Flight from DCA to JFK has been completed and now I’m waiting to depart to Dakar.
The flight information screen says that it is an 8 hour flight. I guess that puts me there between midnight and one based on this time zone. While still anxious, now that I have started flying, it’s much more real.
My backpack had to be checked so I hope that it goes through. I think I’ll have to get it in Dakar anyway before going on since I’ll be entering a different country. Wow. It’s still not quite real.
ak

bringing words to the web

today i started transcribing my paper journal to the computer so i can upload the entries to this blog. i think i could change the date to put them in order but instead, i think i will just post them with the titles of entries... then i can add in the pictures as well.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

home

a sunday later from the last post, and i'm sitting in my living room in dc typing once again. it's odd to think that yesterday i was in the gambia, this morning around one am i was in senegal, and now i'm home in dc. while the return trip fared better with regard to my luggage (i have all pieces), there was an overbooking issue with delta in senegal but luckily i was able to be transfered to a south african flight to dulles (which in turn actually meant one less flight and an earlier arrival).

and like any american, i've already been to starbucks. hah. that is funny-heimy wanted coffee and breakfast. i tell you: walking the streets of dc felt like home but definitely had a different feel after walking in africa. and i was thankful of walking in and out of the bathroom with fully equipped power and plumbing. ah to note those differences.

i'm glad i am back safely, although i feel like i'm in this odd time warp and there is so much more to write, that i have an exciting task ahead of me. and now i can look and share my pictures too (i'm trying to get the videos to upload as well).

later. sleep first. :)

Sunday, August 10, 2008

i am toubab

i have now spent more than a week in the gambia, experiencing life as is "the gambian way." This means that after drumming in the morning, i spend the rest of the day relaxing. While i have not posted more than one other time, i have been writing a lot of things down so that when i return i can post them. it seems easier than the trek to the internet cafe--which is not that bad of a walk.

Toubab is the word that the children ( and some adults) use to call at me. It means white person and i hear it a lot. It is accompanied by a variety of behaviors. Most kids yell it followed with how are you or give me mente (mint) or delasi (money). Some children cry. Some stop all of what they are doing bewildered. Some run up to me and ask my name and grab my hand. And those that i saw from the taxi as we were driving through "the bush" run along side the car after me. It's a completely different experience.

The drumming is going well. I've played four different instruments learning parts on each. It usually takes me a little while to learn and get the rhythm. I still struggle to play my part if Libon changes what he plays... but i am improving. I only had 2 balafon lessons, but they were fun. Today was the start of week 2.

Friday was an adventure of large porportions. Taking the car to Banjul, boarding a ferry, and then taking a taxi on a winding-rollercoaster of a drive through the bush. We went to Juffreh for me to learn more about the slave trade and history. A trip Brandi would have loved :). While a sad topic, i am extremely glad to have had the chance to go on that journey. I got a bit sunburned as a result, but nothing too terrible.

I have spent a lot of time relaxing with Libon and 2 of his friends at their compound. I enjoy their company and it is a lot of fun. While english is the official language of the gambia, i hear much more of 3 different dialects depending on who is speaking. I couldn't tell you one from the other if a random thing was spoken, but they're trying to teach me some phrases. My mind often goes to spanish. Alison said that when she was taking other languages. I found it is true for me here as well. The spanish will do nothing. If i had stuck with my fifth grade choice of french over spanish, i would be in better shape.

i like the gambian way of life. it's very relaxing and it just took a little time to get used to. it definitely is the rainy season and that makes traveling interesting. the lightning is like fireworks in the distant sky. and it's hot. unbearably hot. it's ridiculous trying to sleep. and i'm completely soaked as i type this. but all is well. i am well fed and well taken care of.

so more to come later, oh but the unexpected and exciting thing of last thursday was that i got to go to the airport and get my backpack. yay for stuff that makes me feel more comfortable. and yay for the deet bug repellent that is thick and sticky but is (i think) doing it's job.

as is said quite often here:
peace.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

arrived

i am here in the gambia. arrived yesterday after a long journey and time spent in the senegal airport. i cannot say the same for my luggage. apparently i am cursed. i am hoping and praying that i locate my luggage.
currently typing at an internet cafe and looking up the numbers for delta and air senegal. please send all positive thoughts on the manner my way.
i have yet to start drumming so those updates will come later.
however, i am here and we'll see what comes next.