Sunday, August 10, 2008

i am toubab

i have now spent more than a week in the gambia, experiencing life as is "the gambian way." This means that after drumming in the morning, i spend the rest of the day relaxing. While i have not posted more than one other time, i have been writing a lot of things down so that when i return i can post them. it seems easier than the trek to the internet cafe--which is not that bad of a walk.

Toubab is the word that the children ( and some adults) use to call at me. It means white person and i hear it a lot. It is accompanied by a variety of behaviors. Most kids yell it followed with how are you or give me mente (mint) or delasi (money). Some children cry. Some stop all of what they are doing bewildered. Some run up to me and ask my name and grab my hand. And those that i saw from the taxi as we were driving through "the bush" run along side the car after me. It's a completely different experience.

The drumming is going well. I've played four different instruments learning parts on each. It usually takes me a little while to learn and get the rhythm. I still struggle to play my part if Libon changes what he plays... but i am improving. I only had 2 balafon lessons, but they were fun. Today was the start of week 2.

Friday was an adventure of large porportions. Taking the car to Banjul, boarding a ferry, and then taking a taxi on a winding-rollercoaster of a drive through the bush. We went to Juffreh for me to learn more about the slave trade and history. A trip Brandi would have loved :). While a sad topic, i am extremely glad to have had the chance to go on that journey. I got a bit sunburned as a result, but nothing too terrible.

I have spent a lot of time relaxing with Libon and 2 of his friends at their compound. I enjoy their company and it is a lot of fun. While english is the official language of the gambia, i hear much more of 3 different dialects depending on who is speaking. I couldn't tell you one from the other if a random thing was spoken, but they're trying to teach me some phrases. My mind often goes to spanish. Alison said that when she was taking other languages. I found it is true for me here as well. The spanish will do nothing. If i had stuck with my fifth grade choice of french over spanish, i would be in better shape.

i like the gambian way of life. it's very relaxing and it just took a little time to get used to. it definitely is the rainy season and that makes traveling interesting. the lightning is like fireworks in the distant sky. and it's hot. unbearably hot. it's ridiculous trying to sleep. and i'm completely soaked as i type this. but all is well. i am well fed and well taken care of.

so more to come later, oh but the unexpected and exciting thing of last thursday was that i got to go to the airport and get my backpack. yay for stuff that makes me feel more comfortable. and yay for the deet bug repellent that is thick and sticky but is (i think) doing it's job.

as is said quite often here:
peace.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Although I was getting a little worried about you I am glad you are having a wonderful time. I think you will have many stories to share when you return. I only hope that your backpack follows you home!!
Love,
Peppermint Pattipsqzl

Anonymous said...

Hey Toubab, glad to hear you're still alive! It sounds like you're having a wonderful time, and I can't wait to read the more detailed blogs upon your return. Make sure you pick up a few words from the different dialogues to teach me when you get back. Congratulations on getting your backpack, and good luck learning all those exciting new instruments. I miss you!!

msbeers said...

Hey there, we were just talking about you today, people were wondering where you were, when you would be back, and how things were going so far. Now I will be able to give them an update.

I expect a ton of great pictures and information on your field trip - Of course the fact that I am jealous goes without saying, although after your description of the heat I am pretty sure that I am in the right place for me.

PD isn't the same without you, but we are holding down the fort. One positive - no silly ice breakers.

I am so glad that you are having a good time and that you got your backpack back. I hope the rest of your time is just as relaxing

Be safe...talk to you soon,

B

Anonymous said...

Sounds like you're making the best of your Gambian adventure. I wish I had taken French as well though I am SURE that I would not need it in Gambia - I'm too much of a chicken.

I'm uncomfortable today with the humidity but it's in the mid 70's. I can't imagine your heat. I'm glad you're putting the deet on - no sense fooling with malaria.

Wishing you a great last few days and a safe trip back to U.S. Shall we all call you Toubab from now on????

Peggy